How to adjust your Titleist TSR driver
So you've finally got your hands on a new to you Titleist TSR driver, and you want to get every yard, foot, and inch out of it! The article (and video) will do just that. We'll help you adjust your TSR driver to the optimum settings for your game.
Like most drivers now, the Titleist TSR has hosel adjustability, and the Sure-Fit hosel is one of the best. The duel-cog system has been a mainstay in Titleist drivers for a long time, and Titleist thinks they have the best approach as it does not change from driver to driver.
De-coding the Titleist Sure-Fit Chart
Before we start, we need to know what all the letters and numbers on our club relate to. The Sure-Fit chart Titleist use can be confusing, but it is straightforward once you know what you're looking at.
When looking at the chart, imagine you're on the tee in the standard position, highlighted in red. If you want to hit the ball higher, then move up the chart to settings D4 or A4. If you wish to hit the ball lower, move down the chart to D1. To hit the ball to the left, move left, and to the right to move the ball to the right.
Once you understand the Sure-Fit chart and identify on there what you want the ball to do, in terms of going high, low, left, or right, it's actually really simple to choose the corresponding setting and make the adjustment. And you change back to standard position A1 so don't be afraid to experiment and play with all the settings.
Adjusting the Titleist Sure-Fit hosel
When you buy your TSR driver, it will come with a simple adjustment wrench allowing you to remove the head and start adjusting. To open or loosen the hosel screw in your driver, place the wrench into the top of the screw and turn it anti-clockwise. To tighten a screw, you turn it clockwise. The screw, when fully tightened, makes an audible "click" to let you know that it is safely locked in place and to avoid over-tightening.
When fully opened, the head can be easily removed from the shaft and reveal two rings which move independently from each other and correspond to settings on the Titleist Sure-Fit chart. There are 16 different possible settings.
- You can raise the loft by up to 1.5 degrees or lower it by 0.75 degrees.
- You can make the lie up to 1.5 degrees more upright or make the lie 0.75 degrees flatter.
Some working examples
- If you are in the standard neutral factory position A1 and want more loft, you can rotate the cogs to position D4 to add 0.75 degrees of loft, then line up the little dot on the head and reattach.
- To add more loft, rotate from position A1 to A4 and reattach the head.
- To reduce the loft, keeping everything else neutral, you've only one choice, that position D1 which will reduce the loft by 0.75 degrees.
- If you're happy with the standard loft but want to make the club so that it draws (or hits the ball to the left) the ball the most, you move left on the chart and find position A2. Spin the rings from position A1 to A2 then reattach the head.
- If you want to hit high bomb draws (up and left), move it to position A3. Again, swivel the rings to A3, line up the setting with the dot and reattach.
- Adding max loft and max fade, it's position B4.
What about the Lefties?
Now for you Left Handed players (me included!), the Sure-Fit chart is different, but the theory is the same. We have a whole video dedicated to adjusting left-handed Titleist drivers.
Moving the weight in the Titleist TSR3 driver
The TSR3 has a further layer of adjustability via the Sure-Fit CG track system. Other brands' drivers use draw and fade markings in their sliding weight tracks, but the Titleist uses H1, H2, T1, and T2.
You can use them primarily to put the weight behind where you hit the ball and Titleist says even excellent players tend to miss the sweet spot, but they miss consistently - either towards the heel or the toe.
They call a slight miss towards the heel H1, more of a miss towards the heel H2. They call a slight miss towards the toe T1, more of a miss towards the toe T2. So if you find that you miss the sweet spot consistently in any of those positions, you can reposition the sliding weight in the track to that position to produce a longer and more consistent strike. You're moving this weight directly behind where you strike the ball, and it should result in a better hit.
Using them to add draw or fade bias to the head will be much more subtle. How you set the club up with the Sure-Fit hosel will have a far greater effect on how the ball reacts when hit with the TSR3 driver.
Swapping the weights on the Titleist TSR4 driver
Finally, the TSR4 has a pair of moveable weights in the sole of the golf club. You can loosen and remove them in exactly the same way with the adjustment wrench. One is slightly heavier than the other.
With the heavier weight in the front (as standard), the centre of gravity is pushed forward to deliver the longest drives with a low, penetrating flight.
Moving the heavy weight to the back makes the TSR4 driver more forgiving but sacrifices a few yards. The centre of gravity is more towards the back; there's more spin and a slightly higher trajectory. Titleist says in this setting; it plays more like the TSR3 driver - or a TSR3+.
Which one should you buy?
That is how to adjust everything on the Titleist TSR drivers. How to adjust the Sure-Fit hosel, common to all of them, and then how to set up your TSR3 and TSR4 to suit you best.
If you're still wondering which of the TSR drivers is right for you, we have a complete breakdown to ensure you make the right decision.
So you've got your matching Titleist TSR fairway wood, but it's the first adjustable fairway wood you've had. You're lost in a new world of adjustment capabilities and need help figuring out where to start?
Fair play to Titleist; they stick to their philosophy of only releasing drivers every two years and try to make any improvements tangible to everyone. The TSR continues to refine the previous TSi drivers, each with a discernible difference. So which one is right for you?