How to adjust your TaylorMade M1 driver

Thomas Tanner
Apr 03, 2020
4 minutes

When you purchase a TaylorMade M1 driver, you are gaining a club that has a tremendous amount of adjustability. With a simple adjustment wrench, you can raise and lower the loft, give the driver a draw or fade bias, and change the trajectory and spin the driver puts on the golf ball. Our guide breaks all of these down to help you set up your M1 driver to best suit your game.

To open or loosen any screw in your driver, place the wrench into the top of the screw and turn anti-clockwise; to tighten, turn it clockwise. When fully tightened, there will be an audible "CLICK" to let you know the sleeve is safely locked in place and to avoid over-tightening.

When fully opened, the head can be removed from the shaft. Numbers and settings on the tip of the shaft indicate the different loft, lie and face angle options you can choose. TaylorMade uses a four-degree tip adapter which allows the stated loft to be increased or decrease by two-degrees. There are 12 different notches or movements on the sleeve, and each one increases or decreases loft.

What happens if you reduce loft?

Rotating the shaft to the LOWER position reduces the loft of by two degrees. At this setting, the face is also going to be 4-degrees open, the lie angle is 58-degrees, and spin is reduced by about 400 rpm.

What happens if you increase loft?

Rotating the shaft to the HIGHER position increases the loft by 2-degrees, the face is going to close by 4-degrees and spin increased by about 400 rpm

Note you don't have to adjust to the LOWER or HIGHER settings, you can turn the hosel incrementally along the notches in between to make the changes more gradually.

Spinning the tip adaptor 180-degrees to the UPRT marking sits the driver at its stated loft with a lie angle which is 4-degrees more upright. You'll find this sets the club up for a draw, but it's a lot more subtle than in the HIGHER setting.

As well as the loft sleeve adjustment options, the M1 also has two sliding rails with weights in the head. This is called the T track, and the weights are loosened and tightened with the same tool as before.

The rail behind the head that runs parallel to the face contains a weight which can be loosened and moved towards the heel or the toe. Move the weight all the way towards the heel, to where it says DRAW, will shift the CG location to aide a draw shot shape.

Move the weight all the way to the toe, to where is says FADE, and the CG location moves to put a fade shot shape on your drives.

Finally, there's the rail running front to back in the head. Move the red screw forward to the LOW position, to shift CG forward. This will produce shots that come off the face a little lower with less spin.

Move the red weight to the HIGH position to move the centre of gravity as far back as possible resulting in more spin being put on the ball for a higher ball flight, and will make the driver as forgiving as possible.

Further reading

The TaylorMade M1 2017 built on the success of the original model - and when it comes to adjustability, either M1 is the cream of the crop. Hosel adjustability along with moveable weights allow you to raise and lower the loft, give the driver a draw or fade bias, and change things like the trajectory and spin the driver puts on the golf ball.

The M3 driver takes adjustability to a whole new level. As well as groundbreaking technology in terms of Twist Face and a Hammerhead slot for distance, with just a simple wrench, you can raise and lower the loft, give the driver a draw or fade bias, and change things like the trajectory and spin the driver puts on the golf ball.